Sour shrimp soup A gateway to Filipino cuisine
Many people around the world enjoy fiery hot spices, but Filipinos gravitate toward another extreme, say Nicole Ponseca and Miguel Trinidad in their cookbook I Am a Filipino (Artisan). Probably because people in the Philippines have been cooking with vinegar and citrus longer than they’ve been
cooking with fire, sourness is “a cuisinedefining flavor profile,” and many prefer “a sourness so intense it provokes salivation and lip-smacking.” Sinigang, a beloved Filipino soup, is “deliberately and reliably sour,” and the shrimp-centric version below uses an unusual souring agent: the fruit and core of the greenest, least-ripe pineapple the cook can find. The recipe also calls for sugar cane
vinegar, which can be found at many pan-Asian markets, or replaced by cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, or rice vinegar— anything with a touch of sweetness.
The broth is made with water that has been used to wash rice, because the starch in the water thickens the soup. For the richest flavor, use whole, unpeeled, head-on shrimp. “You will have to peel the shrimp as you eat them, but think of it as a way to slow down a bit, adding to your enjoyment of this wonderful and unique version of sinigang.”
Put the rice in a bowl, cover with 8 cups water, and massage the grains in the water, rubbing them between your fingers for a second or two until all have been washed. Drain, reserving the rice water. The rice itself can be saved for another use or cooked to serve with this soup. Core the pineapple with a sharp knife, coarsely chop the core, and wrap it in cheesecloth. Tie the cheesecloth tightly shut
with butcher’s twine. Cube the rest of the pineapple.
In a large pot, combine the rice-washing water, onions, tomatoes, pineapple core in cheesecloth, and cubed pineapple. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Cook 45 minutes, whisk in fish sauce, then taste the broth. If the broth is not sour enough for your liking, whisk in lemon
juice (if using) and the vinegar. Add beans and simmer until beans are almost fully tender, about 5 minutes.
Discard the pineapple core and season broth with pepper. Just before serving the soup, add the shrimp and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the shrimp are pink and have started to curl up. Taste soup and add
more lemon juice or fish sauce if desired. Serve immediately, with or without cooked rice. Serves 4 to 6.